The drive up to the monastery is a good 3 hours or so from NYC, requiring very detailed directions. If you take a wrong turn, your only hope is the kindness of local strangers who can point you in the right way. We were relying on our handy iPhone map until we got deep enough in the mountains and lost all signal. Almost a quarter of the journey is on dirt roads, so make sure your car can handle it. Keep in mind, too, that the rain can make it extra challenging on those curvy dirt roads.
Five of us drove up, and were greeted a beautiful lake and a bald monk dressed in sheer black robes. I never did get the chance to ask about the different ranks and dress of the monks, but there is an obvious hierarchy. We drove up to the building - an amalgum of Japanese temple architecture and college dormitory styling - and 4 of us were assigned to room 11, the remaining friend who was a regular visitor, had her own single room. Our room was furnished with a pair of bunk beds, a complete set of linens (including two woolen blankets) per person, a closet, a bathroom larger than those found in most NYC apartments, and windows with a view of the lake. All was clean, and sparse. Aside from the room, we were not given a key - it's all about trust and karma here. We left our valuables anyway (or I did, at least) and never had a problem with theft.
We registered, paid, got lunch then were given an informal tour of the grounds. We stopped by one of the rooms to decorate our own personal paper lantern that was to take part in the ceremony. The lantern was to honor any of our past loved ones, who were supposed to have picked that night to come and visit us on this earthly plane, just to say hi. Four blank sides of rice paper set about a styrofoam base. In the middle of the base would be a candle, lit during the processional. We finished our lanterns, and were guided to the temple room to dedicate it and place it with the other lanterns.
For the remaining hours until the evening's ceremony, we took the opportunity to circle the big lake, changed into gray jedi-like robes, and had dinner. After dinner we lined up in the ceremony room and tried to follow along with the Buddhist ritual - lots of changing, an amazing amount of intense energy. After the ritual, night had fallen and we all gathered outside to the lake in the utter absolute dark, carrying our lanterns and placing them into the row boats which were sent out to the other side of the water. It was indescribably beautiful to watch these glowing lanterns being set onto the water, floating gently into the night, with the soft background chanting and bells ringing as we said our greetings to our departed loved ones. This emotional ceremony was followed by a large bonfire and party at the cottage house. There was another meditation and ceremony early the next morning, followed by breakfast, and then it was time to go.
A truly unique experience, one that even my Japanese friends say is not done commonly in Japan today.
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